Thursday, June 30, 2011

THE LONGEST WATCH

Alligator River, NC 35º40.398N | 76º03.402W

Unsettled in Oriental
I've gritted my teeth through some long watches, usually in expected places like Tongues of Oceans, but this one topped my list -- and it was only two hours.

Our short hops up the coast have continued, stopping at another favorite spot: Beaufort, NC. I already wrote about our history with Beaufort when we passed through last fall, four days into our cruising career.

This time, as always, we enjoyed the shops and restaurants, tooling around before an early morning run to Oriental.

We lifted anchor in Beaufort at 8:07, and I was feeling slightly queasy. Strange. I took a slug of Pepto, which usually kicks seasickness for me, even the tiniest sip. But why was I seasick? We'd been underway for weeks -- and conditions were mild.

My watch was to last until 10, and every minute I felt worse and worse. By 9:45, I was counting seconds, miliseconds, in an unending blur of nausea.

When Chip took over at 10, I fell on the couch and didn't budge until we approached Oriental. We tried unsuccessfully to anchor (although I do consider running aground a form of anchoring), so as a last resort we hailed the marina.

On this northern trek, I'm in charge of docking, so I took the wheel and pulled into a pencil-thin slip, threw a stern line over the piling, rodeo-style, and shut off the engine.

I went below, collapsed on the couch in a cold sweat, and did not leave the boat for 48 hours.

Food poisoning. We know that now, because Chip followed my lead. Six months in the Bahamas with no food issues. Two weeks in the U.S.: food poisoning.

Nachos. Good old American nachos in Beaufort.

We hobbled out of Oriental this morning and chose to take the inside route to Manteo. The capricious Pamlico on a still-queasy stomach? No thanks.

We're anchored in the Alligator River, feeling stronger and excited, one stop away from our home port!

Heading toward Beaufort.
Scenic Alligator River.

Sunday, June 26, 2011

REVISITATION

Swansboro, NC 34º41.152N | 77º7.072W

New policy: work 'til you get there, have fun when you do.
After several long days, we've decided to make three short hops, treating ourselves to some of the spots we love along the way. Besides, today is Saturday, and one thing we've learned: all the folks who just bought blue light special water toys come out to play with them on the weekend. The less time we spend with rednecks dragging their progeny through questionable waters on anything that floats the better. Charles Darwin. You have work to do here.

Starting earlier than most rednecks, we made an easy six-hour hop to Swansboro, for no other reason than to visit a pub we like here (who's a redneck now?). This little town caught us unawares last October when we were newly minted cruisers, before we had experienced first-hand the many charms of ICW towns.

Tonight we revisited that pub and then sat on the porch with locals at the cigar shop across the street. It was a pleasant conversation until the topic turned to one that seems to be on everybody's mind these days: healthcare. One woman actually seemed to say she could never cruise, because she was afraid to be away from health care facilities. Her husband didn't agree.

We left them there and went to check on Cara Mia, anchored in a swift current upstream from a concrete bridge. As always, she was right where we left her, happy to welcome us home.

Saturday, June 25, 2011

NORTH BY NORTHEAST

Monday, June 20 
Charleston, SC 32º47.351N | 79º55.461W

With our one-week vacation in Charleston behind us, our focus is now making tracks north to Manteo to see our kids and friends.

Tuesday, June 21
Butler Island, SC 33º25.765N | 79º12.006W


First stop: Butler Island, where we anchored at 7:04 p.m. after 73 miles, 10 hours of motorsailing and riding swift currents. This is the kind of spot that, if you didn't know the sad reality, gives the impression that the whole world is at peace.

Wednesday, June 22 
North Myrtle Beach, SC 33º51.09N | 78º39.27W

A peaceful 7:24 a.m. getaway.
Today's destination was an empathy stop. Karen & Dale on Jessie Marie left Charleston a day ahead of us. We weren't sure when or where we would see them again until we got this text:

"Engine blown. Waiting for a tow."

We stopped in North Myrtle Beach to commiserate with them only to find they had taken their plight with good ol' Canadian unflappability. Seeing they might be here for a while, they rented bikes and contentedly settled in for a spell.

It was great to meet one of our blog readers here in North Myrtle -- a soon-to-be cruiser still plodding TO paradise. It's gratifying to pass along the kind of encouragement and support we've received on our extremely slow ploddingTOparadise.blogspot.com.

Learning the value of doing chores underway. Free time!
Friday, June 24 
Topsail, NC 34º23.680N | 77º35.809W

Moving water.     Photo by Chip
We pushed a lot of water up the ICW today. After an 11-hour, 47-minute trek of 83 miles, we anchored in a less-than-ideal spot in Topsail. The wind was cranking, and there weren't any protected spots, so we have tucked way up into a shallow, residential neighborhood and are hoping for the best.

A peaceful (boring) day on the ICW caused me to enlist the autohelm remote.
Hi Barbara!

Saturday, June 18, 2011

BRINGING HOME THE GULF STREAM

Charleston, SC 32º47.351N | 79º55.461W


The first time I witnessed the rich cobalt blue of the Gulf Stream, I tried and failed to capture it in a photo, like I do.

This morning I was walking through the Farmer's Market in Charleston and saw this:


The artist, Katie Gates, conjured the Gulf Stream from sterling silver and blue striped agate.

See some of her other work here.
And now I carry the mighty and entrancing Gulf Stream on my finger. 

Let's hope this doesn't mean I'll get all stirred up in north winds.