Thursday, February 17, 2011

THE GRATITUDE DANCE

Sampson Cay, Exumas 24º12.5N | 76º28.5W
Jessie Marie, a beautiful sight.
Jessie Marie, Jessie Marie, this is Cara Mia.

This lonely missive has been broadcast twice a day for the last two weeks, not unlike the message earthlings transmit into the ether, in case someone's out there listening. And just like that alien appeal, I've gotten silence in return.

Since leaving Miami on January 18, our only contact with Dale & Karen on Jessie Marie has been by email, a medium sketchy and elusive in the Bahamas. With both of our boats on the move and trading messages every three days or so, it has been a frustrating game of hide and seek -- or maybe seek and seek. The VHF reaches, at its most generous, less than 20 miles. We have a Single Side Band on board but as yet have only figured out how to receive. Little does it matter in this case. Jessie Marie has an SSB that only receives.

In this modern world of constant instant communication, we have been unable to reach each other.

But two days ago, I had just talked to Casey on the VHF when I heard Karen's sweet voice on the radio.

I practically shouted into the microphone, "Jessie Marie, Jessie Marie, this is Cara Mia. Go to 6-8."

Thus followed a lot of happy screaming and catching up, with, I'm sure, the entire Big Majors anchorage listening, relieved and bemused that we finally found each other. (We heard later reports from these flies on our wall.)

Karen reported that the converse lonely announcement had been transmitting north of us as well: "Cara Mia, Cara Mia, this is Jessie Marie," again to utter silence.

Finally within radio range, Jessie and her crew were less than 20 miles north at Warderick Wells. We set a radio date every morning @ 8 until we can find each other again.

This morning, we moped around feeling alone without Casey and Remi aboard, facing a day of chores ahead to get Cara Mia back in order after two weeks of heavy action.

Cockpit laundromat.
At 8, Chip answered Jessie Marie's hail.

"We're at Sampson Cay. It's really nice here. Good burgers at the restaurant," Chip reported, never subtle in his enticements.

After a few minutes of chitchat, Karen said, "Well, we're headed your way."

"Where are you going?" Chip asked, expecting to hear Cambridge or Compass Cay.

"You're way. We're headed to Sampson."

And sure enough, just after noon, Jessie Marie came into view, a beautiful sight. If you look closely at that photo above, you'll see Karen doing the The Gratitude Dance, an answer to our dual happy dance on the elevated stern seats (sorry, no photos of this).

2011: Still the Year of Happy Surprises.


Sampson Cay, Exumas 24º12.5N | 76º28.5W

Cara Mia and Jessie Marie, together again.
Catching up on all the miles between Miami and Sampson Cay.

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

FULFILLED AND HALF EMPTY

Staniel Cay, Exumas 24º10.656N | 76º26.602W
The famous Swimming Pigs of Big Majors Spot.
Staniel Cay is a bittersweet stop for us. The swimming pigs of neighboring Big Majors Spot have always snorted out to us, but this is also where Casey and Remi will fly back to Nassau ending their 16-day stay with us on Cara Mia.

Sweet -- for all of us -- is the fact that we can finally fill up with water and load up on some provisions, both much needed additions to our little flotilla. This was also the first stop with an actual restaurant where we indulged in $12 burgers and $5 beers.

Casey and Remi joined Pat and Mike, the brothers of the good ship Hartley, to hunt for lobster.

Pat, Remi, Mike and Casey
The men of Hartley and Cara Mia combined forces on a stormy night to craft a true feast including seafood pasta, lobster calzones and lobster pizza.

Pat and Mike, at 26 and 28, bought their own beautiful Toshiba 40 sailboat and are in the midst of an action-packed kiteboarding and surfing tour of the Bahamas. They generously included Casey and Remi in their local adventures. One afternoon when I hailed them, I was answered by an elderly boater who reported they were underneath her boat cleaning the bottom. Fine lads. We hope to see again soon in our travels.

Thunderball grotto made famous in the 1965 James Bond
movie Thunderball.  Photo by Remi Langlois
Pat and Casey under Thunder.  Photo by Remi Langlois
The flying brothers of Hartley (kite surfing).  Photo by Remi Langlois
Photo by Remi Langlois
Sixteen days is a long time for four people to share less than 300 non-square feet of space, but it is a testament to the temperament of our guests that we passed it with amazing harmony. Casey and Remi adapted to life onboard with ease, never complaining about the chores or vexations of boat life and running full speed with their youthful joie de vivre at the delights offered by it.

We left them at the Staniel Cay "airport" for a weepy ride back to the boat, waving madly when their plane passed over Cara Mia as we made our way out of Staniel Cay Yacht Club headed for a quiet night alone at Sampson Cay on our enormous, half empty boat.

Sampson Cay, Exumas 24º12.5N | 76º28.5W


Last stop in the Exumas, Casey holding the sweet, sweet gifts they left behind.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

SIGHTS OF STANIEL & BIG MAJORS

Staniel Cay, Exumas 24º10.656N | 76º26.602W


Civilization of sorts after two weeks on near-deserted islands.
Staniel Cay airstrip.
Big Majors naval contingent.


In a pig's eye.



Wednesday, February 9, 2011

A CHARTER WITH SOUL


It occurs to me that some of you readers would like to do exactly what we're doing. What if you could cheat your way over here on a plane without selling all your possessions and spending months varnishing teak? Why didn't someone offer me that option? LOL

Our friends Eric and Annie on WeBeSailing finance their cruising by taking on charter guests in the Exumas, going to the same places you read about in this blog. They operate a have-it-your-way charter where you design your own trip. If all you want to do is gaze at starfish through shockingly clear water by day and at a million and three stars by night, fine. If you want to snorkel, dive, hunt, fish and swim on a different island every day, so be it. Either way, Eric will be your patient guide and Annie your magnificent chef. I know, because we've been fortunate to enjoy both.

Eric and Annie are filled with the joy of living and are constantly on the prowl for an excuse to laugh out loud, like way out loud. Eric has what a friend of ours calls a "Mount Everest laugh" that reverberates throughout the anchorage accompanied by Annie's sunset call on the conch shell.

Chef Annie in the galley with the ship's cat, Shellsea.
Captain Eric showing off his catch.
Their boat, WeBeSailing, is a character-filled (literally) Perry 60-foot Bermudian ketch with four master cabins that they have fitted out to reflect their quirky personalities. WeBeSailing flies under the skull and crossbones, complete with tiki torches, pirate costumes and a rockin' party deck out back that fills me with envy.


And you know what? Their charters are truly a bargain.

Tell Annie and Eric we sent you, even though there are no kickbacks other than knowing you too can experience the warm embrace of Annie and Eric and this amazing Bahamian sun.

Check 'em out: www.webesailing.com

Guest cabin.
Galley decor.
Annie's hand-laid tile in the shower. Yes, a shower, complete with HOT WATER!