Showing posts with label George Town. Show all posts
Showing posts with label George Town. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

GUEST BLOG: John Visits Cara Mia

Georgetown, Exumas 23º30.9N | 75º45.4W


I've always wondered what our lives would look like to someone dropping in from land life, so I asked.

Here is our first guest post by John Herlig:

“You unlock this door with the key of imagination. Beyond it is another dimension - a dimension of sound, a dimension of sight, a dimension of mind. You're moving into a land of both shadow and substance, of things and ideas.” 
That famous line from the Twilight Zone seemed to me to apply perfectly to my cameo in the world of cruising.

Fresh off of an American Eagle turboprop flight from Miami, I met Chip & Tammy in the dining room of the gently-pink and Bahamian-proper Peace and Plenty hotel restaurant in Georgetown, Exumas, Bahamas, perched hillside along Elizabeth Harbour.

I was just hours removed from Washington, D.C., and was eager to slip into this cruising dimension previously-unknown to me. My thirst for perspective made its presence known just as soon as the rum soaked into my system, softened the static of plane rides and taxi cabs and unleashed a torrent of questions.

I’ve known Chip & Tammy for a good long time. I’d known Cara Mia back to her dry-dock days when she was still Good Company. I’d read the blogs, tracked the cruising progress, learned the names of new friends along the path, all of which is about as useful as reading recipes to learn what new foods taste like. My week in the cruising world brought some actual life experience to the equation.

First, I learned that you have to rinse that salt water off. This was one of the hardest concepts for me to comprehend in the beginning. Your home floats in salt water. You propel yourself along the saltwater to come to and from shore, to and from the bars, to fetch provisions, drop off trash, or pick up friends. Salt water flies over the bow of the dinghy at every moment, coming at you as if your nephew was given the garden hose and told to have fun at your expense. This was all expected. But that the salt hampers fibers’ ability to dry and leaves an impossible mineral mess in its wake dictates that boarding the boat comes with rinsing off using precious fresh water. I’m sure that I spent my first couple of days aboard Cara Mia unwittingly breaking this house rule and subsequently reemerging, sheepishly, from belowdecks, at the sound of other, more-responsible members of our party dutifully rinsing salt-from-feet in the back of the cockpit. Whoops.

I learned that flushing the toilet in the head of a sailboat is a task of inexplicable stress and consternation, reminiscent of an actor having to walk, slowly and silently, off of a stage. It should just be so simple, but it’s not. And everybody else knows it.

I learned some spectacular sailing words and jargon and even declared at one point that we would have “Only Speak in Nautical Terms Day” which was supposed to coincide with “All-About-Tammy Day”, both of which, ruefully, never happened. Guaranteed, however, was that I would declare something to be “athwartships, OBVIOUSLY, duh,” or “22.5 degrees abaft the beam,” which applies to light visibility and, if you’re me, anything. “My water glass is 22.5 degrees the baft abeam of my plate – do you think that’s ok?” I don’t know why they didn’t throw me overboard, come to think of it.

There was so much more: the net -- a daily VHF radio broadcast entertaining in its generally-painful composition. There was the Family Island Regatta, a game of Iron Chef in Cara Mia’s galley, a dinghy-of-death ride, endless, boundless fun at the expense of other boat’s names (“Really? Really? What were they thinking!?”) There was the hybrid Tarheel-Nova Scotian VHF station “74 the ROCK – None of the hits, All of the time.” There were snorkeling trips and dinners with friends old and new and drinks under the stars.

There was more that week than I can possibly remember; more substance, more conversation, more life than I have had the pleasure of experiencing in quite some time, made decidedly more remarkable by being wound casually-yet-deliberately around a core of daily chores and foot rinses and toilet flushes. It is in fact another dimension, made so by the very essence of life and a symbiotic existence with your environment. I think Rod Serling would appreciate the parallel. I appreciated the reality.




Monday, May 2, 2011

A NEW CREWMEMBER

Georgetown, Exumas 23º30.9N | 75º45.4W


Our friend John, who now lives in D.C., came for the family regatta, a four-day sailing party (see the last entry). John has long been involved in our dream of cruising, going to the boat show with us and even helping us sand toe rails at one point, so it seems fitting he is the first friend to join us along the way.

With only a five-day visit, we weren't able to sail to other islands, but that did not keep us from using the time fully.

Being parked right in front of the beach bar filled our days with boat- and people- watching, and, in one case, boatplane watching. Volleyball, snorkeling, lolling on the beach, punctuated with dinghy-of-death rides through the regatta gauntlet.

John was a near-perfect guest, taking all our boat-life oddities in stride and being game for anything from getting hosed down by dinghy spray -- repeatedly -- to sitting quietly in the cockpit watching the slow pace of life in the Bahamas.

We laughed and talked and laughed and ate and drank. We played ridiculous games like pick your favorite flag from each page of our flag book, and, a new one John taught us, name your autobiography using phrases that come up in conversation. My favorite: "One Queen Away, The Life of John Herlig."

Five days passed too quickly, so we added another one and used that one right up as well.

Friday, April 29, 2011

BAHAMIAN WINGS

George Town, Exumas 23º30.9N | 75º45.4W

National Family Island Regatta, Georgetown, Bahamas.    ©2011 Tammy Kennon
Bahamians have turned their seafaring and boatbuilding heritage into a grand sporting event. Their beautiful sloops are elegant and graceful vessels, their masts raking the clouds, their puffy sails large enough to challenge credibility. Once used for transportation and cargo delivery, these gracious boats now compete for a national title in an annual event, party actually, in its 58th year.

©2011 Tammy Kennon
The largest class of sloops are shorter than Cara Mia with masts that tower overhead six stories high. Under full sail, they look destined to flip right over in a big puff of wind -- and sometimes they do. As counterweight to the enormous sheet overhead, the crew slides a board way out over the water and perches precariously on it, sliding it the other way when they change direction, out over the water, and the crew clambers out on the other side.

A sloop in mid-tack, the crew shifting the board.

The boats start from anchor, sails down.


When the cannon sounds the crew lifts the anchor while at the same time hoisting the sails. The starting line becomes quite a laundry display.



While the sloops are elegant and silent, slicing gracefully through Elizabeth Harbor, the floating fan base is more like an aquatic demolition derby, darting right up to and sometimes all around the racing boats.

Dinghies (us), small fishing boats, recreational power boats, police boats, kayaks, everything, far outnumber the racing boats. With no proscribed course, the fan boats rush from mark to mark trying to get the best view of the race, everyone looking at the regatta boats and nobody at where they're going. Add dodging boats and riding wakes to the already choppy waters of this harbor and spectating at the regatta becomes something of an extreme watersport of its own.


You spend a lot of your time nervously looking over your shoulder:



The modern thrill of darting through roaring power boats is certainly equalled by the ancient thrill of watching history wing by on a tropical breeze. Breathtaking.



Monday, March 21, 2011

WHERE NORTH MEETS SOUTH

Georgetown, Exumas 23º21.48N | 75º45.94W

Gratuitous shot of the signpost on Chat 'n' Chill Beach in Georgetown.
Of all the things Georgetown means to cruisers -- social center, reprovisioning outpost, guest pickup/dropoff -- it is very much a turning point. No matter what you do after Georgetown, you must turn.

So many people, when asked where they're heading next, heave a big sigh. "Oh, we can't decide."

Some call this "Chicken Harbor," because, theoretically, some are too afraid to keep going south into more challenging waters. For most I don't think that comes into play. The painting is much larger.

Children, grandchildren, aging parents, businesses, property, jobs. There are many reasons to head back home, but for those of us with no jobs, no house, no business, nothing that puts a date on our return, it is a confusing outpost here at the corner of north and south. But when we left North Carolina, in the emotional maelstrom of all the other changes we were undergoing, it was much easier to say, "see you next summer" than heave a weighty, open-ended goodbye. So we promised our ourselves, our families, our kids, our friends, that this first year, we would return.

These last few weeks, goodbyes have loomed up anyway as friends have waved from their boats headed to Cuba, to the Turks and Caicos, to the BVIs and other exotic destinations beyond. It made us ponder leaving Cara Mia somewhere along the southern route and flying home for a good visit, then continuing the migration south on our return. But we made one other promise, to Cara Mia, that we would spend some time and money preparing her for the blue yonder, because, even though she has been there before, we have not. Now that we have some cruising behind us, we need time to reevaluate what we thought was critical, what we thought wasn't, and how the things we put in place are working -- or not. Could be a long summer!

Our next step will be a bittersweet one, as we turn north, our dear friends on Jessie Marie plan to turn south for the Jumentos and Cuba.

In an effort to prolong that goodbye, we've planned a little side trip to Long Island, dipping just below the Tropic of Cancer, the southernmost point on this year's plod in paradise. One last adventure, together.

Sneaking in a renegade yoga class at Monument Beach.

Cara Mia in front of the monument -- I should know to what, but I don't.

Georgetown, the largest town in the Exumas, has a permanent population of 1000.

IT'S NOT IKEA...

Georgetown, Exumas 23º21.48N | 75º45.94W




Today Cara Mia flew under the Swedish flag. It was an international holiday, not by any official decree, but because eight people on four boats declared that today was Swedish Day.

Actually, I think the original idea came from Chip, who I'm pretty sure was angling for some Swedish meatballs, but once the seed was planted, it took root and took over. Given time, and liberty, fun has a tendency to do that.


We used to think the Swedish meatballs at IKEA were so good, until Martin the Viking made the real deal for us. (Strangely enough though, they do not call them Swedish meatballs.) The real, homemade version was spicy, perfectly crispy on the outside, soft and yummy on the inside. Perfect.


We gathered round bleu cheese and ginger cookies, meatballs with lingonberry sauce, herring with mustard sauce, mashed potatoes, Swedish cookies and pickled vodka -- Chip's tasty, homemade version of schnapps.

Since Anna & Håkan and Johanna & Martin already had Swedish names, the naturalized Swedes took on our own: Hanna & Knut, Inga & Blix.

We ate, laughed, listened to Swedish music and sang Swedish beer drinking songs (some of us). We looked at maps of Swedish cruising ground, we learned some Swedish words. And then the Swedes taught us to tango.

Fun has no boundaries.
A beautiful watercolor painted for us by Anna, and our mascots: a moose and a mouse. 
Swedish Key Lime pie? Thanks, Anna!

Sunday, March 20, 2011

SUPERMOON! SUPERDUMB!

Georgetown, Exumas 23º21.48N | 75º45.94W
The rare 'supermoon' was also super shy.
They're calling tonight's full moon a supermoon -- something that happens only once in a blue moon (actually longer) -- something about the moon being closer to the earth. Or something. Whatever.

Do you remember that lesson we learned last November on the ICW about full moons and run-call-your-mama low tides? Well, whatever.

Today, on supermoon, supertide day, we chose dead low tide to cross Elizabeth Harbor, shallow at the best of times, and pull up to a shallow all the time dock -- just to fill our water tank.

Why? No, really, I hope you can answer that. Why? I don't know. Something about moons and lunacy perhaps.

It did not help that there were boats anchored in the freakin' channel, all over it. The dockmaster guided us via the VHF -- right into a sandbar.

So we went back and threaded our way through and around the anchored boats and limped up to the dock, then wisely (if you can be wise in the middle of being stupid) stayed tied up until the tide turned.

In the meantime, two of our friends had made the long crossing from the anchorage and into Georgetown in their dinghies. That's one of the tough things about anchoring here: the dinghy ride across the water is loooong -- 20-30 minutes -- and wet. Most of us don foul weather gear, or garbage bags. Johanna from Snowbird just strips right down to her bathing suit in anticipation of the dousing.

So, since we were crossing back to the anchorage in the big, dry boat, we offered them all a lift.

Our rubber dinglings.
One boat, six people, three dinghies, six opinions on anchoring.

Lunacy.

Chip, waiting for the supermoon -- and a shot of vodka.
Elizabeth Harbor from Stocking Island, Georgetown across the water.
New album: The Swedes of Snowbird. Now we just need the music ....

Saturday, March 19, 2011

A MOMENT IN TIME

Georgetown, Exumas 23º21.48N | 75º45.94W

There is a reason I travel: a constant quest to experience transcendent moments, few and rare, in a far-flung place, experiencing a true, uncontrived moment that connects me to humankind.

The mesmerizing thrum of drums and shakers, marching feet and blaring tubas, trumpets, brilliant white paint on black skin, white costumes shot through with bursts of blue and orange and yellow. Pound, pound, pounding feet.

A Junkanoo band threading its way through the crowd, stringing me along upon some common thread running back through history and time, a thread through horns and drums and facepaint, through generations of love and joy and suffering and tears, and right through me, stringing me to all that came before.

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

THE GEORGETOWN THING

Georgetown, Exumas 23º21.48N | 75º45.94W

Underway to Georgetown.
That sketchy cut at Emerald Bay was kind to us. There was swell, but it only tossed us around a bit. Nothing scary. We had a brisk and exhilarating, door-to-door sail today in 18 to 20 knots of wind with good swells. The wind direction wasn't ideal (is it ever?) so we tacked way out into Exuma Sound and back in -- several times. Picking our way into the enormous Elizabeth Harbor, we dropped anchor right next to Unicorn for a long awaited reunion with yet another cruising couple we met in St. Mary's at Thanksgiving and hooked up with again in Vero Beach.

Within the cruising community, Georgetown is either famous or infamous, depending on whether you're a supporter or a detractor. Hundreds of cruising boats anchor here, some all winter, in Elizabeth Harbor east of Georgetown, the largest town in the Exumas. This is, at some level, a boon to the local economy even though cruisers are not known for throwing around cash. However, with hundreds of boats provisioning and going out for beer, I'm sure it adds up. Some of the cruisers have found ways to support the community, raising funds for various projects. (I'm sure there are other ways that cruisers give back. If you know, please comment on this post.) On the other hand, a big percentage of these hundreds of boats pump their waste into the otherwise clear harbor and have been known for pressing the limits of "free" offerings such as water and wifi.

There is an actual governing committee for the floating community here with a "cruisers' net" in the morning for news, weather, local business ads and allotted time for arriving boats to check in and departing boats to say farewell. A cruisers' exchange follows for boaters to offer and partake of goods and services. There are organized activities such as poker, volleyball, swimming classes, basket weaving (really), bridge lessons, and their ultimate week of activities surrounding cruisers' regatta culminating in a ceremony and talent show on shore.

We timed our arrival in Georgetown after the crowded Cruisers' Regatta (unfortunately missing a few friends) and before the Bahamian Music and Heritage Fest, a few days after most of the cruising boats left the still-crowded harbor.

Double reefed. The new reefing rig is working great.
We're once again anchored down amongst friends and looking forward to some Rake and Scrape!

Sunday, March 13, 2011

STOCKING ISLANDERS

Emerald Bay, Exumas 23º46.7N | 76º5.11W

Church in Rolleville, Great Exuma.
What do cruisers do when they have a car? Provision! But not before taking care of business -- and breakfast.

Dale (Jessie Marie), sweet guy that he is, noticed that the workbench on Sea Gal is in a part of the boat with only about five feet of headroom, about a foot and a half too short for Barney, so he decided to donate a stool to the cause.

In a replay of yesterday, we stood on shore howling, whistling and waving, this time with a stool.

Karen and Dale hailing Sea Gal.
Barney came over in the dinghy, and, always one to entertain, he didn't disappoint.

Barney trying out his new stool.
Next order of business: breakfast. We drove along Great Exuma with visions of omelets and toast and bacon dancing in our heads. The Bahamians clearly had a different vision that ran more toward sheep's tongue and pig's feet. Soup. 

AWESOME. If you like souse for breakfast.
The guys decided to go in whole hog, so to speak.

Dale had pig's feet.



Chip had sheep's tongue.


I chickened out and had chicken.



And you were wondering why I found breakfast blog worthy. We eked through the souse, just that once, but found the Johnny cakes spectacular, somewhere between bread and cake. Yum.

Finally, we hit the supermarkets. Real, well-stocked supermarkets, our first in seven weeks, where you can even shop from a list.

Living large -- and well provisioned.


No, Chip's not picking up extra cash, he's carrying our purchases
from the liquor store (which did not include any wine).

TWO dock carts of groceries.



Saturday, March 12, 2011

ODE TO FRIENDSHIP

Emerald Bay, Exumas 23º46.7N | 76º5.11W


Sea Gal at anchor.*
One of the great treasures of cruising is the friendships formed along the way. I've pondered why on water it appears so much easier to form lasting relationships, and I have a few theories, well, four actually.
  1. Strong Characters. Cruising couples have rock solid alliances between two strong, engaged, wise and, almost without fail, witty characters. The reality of living together in a tiny space and undergoing the discomforts, travails and elations of sailing are insupportable without the ability to weather anything thrown at you while sustaining rather than turning on each other, and the utter necessity of finding the humor in all of it. Weak, humorless relationships will eventually, inevitably break.
  2. Open Hearts. Cruising can be a lonely proposition. By design we have to leave behind family and friends, and no longer ensconced in our posse, like college freshmen, we are far from home and more open to embracing new friends.
  3. Time to Spare. When you move at a top speed of 6 mph, life passes at a beautiful protracted pace that to me seems more grounded in reality than the "real world" frenzy fabricated by flocking humans. Out here we have time to value each other, to listen, to laugh, to tell jokes, to lend a hand.
  4. Kindred Spirits. Cruisers are a tiny fraction of the human race. We have abandoned careers, cars, houses, bucked every system we can think of, hitched our wagons to bucking waves, and shaken up the very bones of life. Every day we face new challenges, push our own limits and, frankly, put our lives in our own, and our partner's, hands. It makes sense that the pool of commonality already runs deep. So does the likelihood of meeting strong characters.
That's why we rented a car today, on the strength of a two-day relationship with new friends.

Four months ago at Cruisers Thanksgiving in St. Mary's, Georgia, we fell under the spell of a British couple aboard Sea Gal. Barney and Di are just plain inspirational. They have set out a circumnavigation plan that is as quirky and imaginative as they are, a plan that might be considered fanciful if they weren't pulling it off. Not blessed with a pension, a trust fund or a huge bank account, they work for as long as it takes to build up a decent cruising kitty and then cruise on a thin penny, getting every possible ounce of distance from their stockpile. In fact, Barney and Di are the only people I ever saw actually sailing, not motorsailing, down the ICW to save on fuel.

The circumnavigation plan is to sell Sea Gal after sailing the Caribbean and then purchase another boat in the Pacific Northwest to continue their unorthodox, intermittent slog around the globe.

As Cara Mia and Jessie Marie have headed slowly south together, we have kept in touch with the even slower Sea Gal, trying to triangulate with them to the same spot at the same time, not an easy proposition.

When we arrived here at Emerald Bay Marina, we had email from Diana announcing that Sea Gal was anchored only five miles south of us waiting for the next weather window to head north again, a window looming in the next 48 hours.

We debated amongst ourselves, Karen and Dale on Jessie Marie, and us, not about whether we would see Barney and Di, but how. Five miles is such a pittance on land, but by sea, out one dangerous cut and into another one, it was not merely a jump-and-go proposition. Our solution? Rent a car.

It takes two: one to drive, one to remind the driver to stay on the left side of the road!
Communication between moving vessels is not simple when you're out of VHF range. Even our cell phones were from three different countries and apparently speaking three different languages. Instead we relied on the most modern of methods: Facebook.

Fail.

We communicated back and forth fine until the most important missive: our concrete plan to drive to see them. Barney and Di were unable to get a web connection from their anchorage, so they were unaware that we were on our way.

No worries. They told us earlier where they were anchored.

Well, one worry. They were anchored. We were arriving by car. No dinghy. No radio.

After a few missteps, we spotted their boat too far offshore to call out to -- maybe. We stood on shore yelling, whistling, catcalling, waving, jumping, all four of us.

Yoo hoo! Sea Gal!!! I'm pretty sure that catamaran had us pegged as nutcases.
Finally, we saw movement onboard, Barney and Di throwing their dinghy in the water. They came bolting across the long stretch of water to the dock where we were dancing the gratitude dance.

Dancing the Gratitude Dance.

Gratitude indeed.

An open arms welcome.

*All photos in the entry were taken by Chip.

**My column about this day and cruiser friendships in Classic Yacht magazine in March 2013.