Saturday, March 12, 2011

ODE TO FRIENDSHIP

Emerald Bay, Exumas 23º46.7N | 76º5.11W


Sea Gal at anchor.*
One of the great treasures of cruising is the friendships formed along the way. I've pondered why on water it appears so much easier to form lasting relationships, and I have a few theories, well, four actually.
  1. Strong Characters. Cruising couples have rock solid alliances between two strong, engaged, wise and, almost without fail, witty characters. The reality of living together in a tiny space and undergoing the discomforts, travails and elations of sailing are insupportable without the ability to weather anything thrown at you while sustaining rather than turning on each other, and the utter necessity of finding the humor in all of it. Weak, humorless relationships will eventually, inevitably break.
  2. Open Hearts. Cruising can be a lonely proposition. By design we have to leave behind family and friends, and no longer ensconced in our posse, like college freshmen, we are far from home and more open to embracing new friends.
  3. Time to Spare. When you move at a top speed of 6 mph, life passes at a beautiful protracted pace that to me seems more grounded in reality than the "real world" frenzy fabricated by flocking humans. Out here we have time to value each other, to listen, to laugh, to tell jokes, to lend a hand.
  4. Kindred Spirits. Cruisers are a tiny fraction of the human race. We have abandoned careers, cars, houses, bucked every system we can think of, hitched our wagons to bucking waves, and shaken up the very bones of life. Every day we face new challenges, push our own limits and, frankly, put our lives in our own, and our partner's, hands. It makes sense that the pool of commonality already runs deep. So does the likelihood of meeting strong characters.
That's why we rented a car today, on the strength of a two-day relationship with new friends.

Four months ago at Cruisers Thanksgiving in St. Mary's, Georgia, we fell under the spell of a British couple aboard Sea Gal. Barney and Di are just plain inspirational. They have set out a circumnavigation plan that is as quirky and imaginative as they are, a plan that might be considered fanciful if they weren't pulling it off. Not blessed with a pension, a trust fund or a huge bank account, they work for as long as it takes to build up a decent cruising kitty and then cruise on a thin penny, getting every possible ounce of distance from their stockpile. In fact, Barney and Di are the only people I ever saw actually sailing, not motorsailing, down the ICW to save on fuel.

The circumnavigation plan is to sell Sea Gal after sailing the Caribbean and then purchase another boat in the Pacific Northwest to continue their unorthodox, intermittent slog around the globe.

As Cara Mia and Jessie Marie have headed slowly south together, we have kept in touch with the even slower Sea Gal, trying to triangulate with them to the same spot at the same time, not an easy proposition.

When we arrived here at Emerald Bay Marina, we had email from Diana announcing that Sea Gal was anchored only five miles south of us waiting for the next weather window to head north again, a window looming in the next 48 hours.

We debated amongst ourselves, Karen and Dale on Jessie Marie, and us, not about whether we would see Barney and Di, but how. Five miles is such a pittance on land, but by sea, out one dangerous cut and into another one, it was not merely a jump-and-go proposition. Our solution? Rent a car.

It takes two: one to drive, one to remind the driver to stay on the left side of the road!
Communication between moving vessels is not simple when you're out of VHF range. Even our cell phones were from three different countries and apparently speaking three different languages. Instead we relied on the most modern of methods: Facebook.

Fail.

We communicated back and forth fine until the most important missive: our concrete plan to drive to see them. Barney and Di were unable to get a web connection from their anchorage, so they were unaware that we were on our way.

No worries. They told us earlier where they were anchored.

Well, one worry. They were anchored. We were arriving by car. No dinghy. No radio.

After a few missteps, we spotted their boat too far offshore to call out to -- maybe. We stood on shore yelling, whistling, catcalling, waving, jumping, all four of us.

Yoo hoo! Sea Gal!!! I'm pretty sure that catamaran had us pegged as nutcases.
Finally, we saw movement onboard, Barney and Di throwing their dinghy in the water. They came bolting across the long stretch of water to the dock where we were dancing the gratitude dance.

Dancing the Gratitude Dance.

Gratitude indeed.

An open arms welcome.

*All photos in the entry were taken by Chip.

**My column about this day and cruiser friendships in Classic Yacht magazine in March 2013.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

SHOWERS AND OTHER BLESSINGS

Emerald Bay, Exumas 23º46.7N | 76º5.11W

"You must go to Emerald Bay Marina."

This is something we heard time and again as we neared Georgetown, from cruisers young and old, rich and poor. The selling points as advertised: $1/foot (really cheap), free wifi, nice showers, shuttle to grocery store, free laundry. It was that last one that finally clinched it for us.

There must be a catch, right? Well, it's not so much a catch as a challenge. The cut to get into the marina is a wispy slice between a rocky beach and a manmade concrete breakwater. The cut faces the deep Exuma Sound, so if the wind isn't right, or worse, is all wrong, well, don't even stop there.

Emerald Bay cut on a VERY CALM day.
We had been plowing through big swells on the sail from Lee Stocking, and as we approached Emerald Bay, I looked through the binoculars to see even bigger swells sweeping over the entrance. We debated for a few minutes whether to leave the mainsail up to traverse the channel. Conventional wisdom says always leave a sail up when passing through a cut, but this one was so narrow and once past, there was little room to turn into the wind to drop the sail. Our choice was to drop the sail and rely on that great Yanmar engine that has served us so well.

Natural perils to the north.
Approaching the marks, we could see the big swells head across the channel from the south and break on the jagged rocks on the north side, so we erred toward the southern side, knowing the swell would push us north. As we passed the first mark we were lifted high up on the first swell, looking down at the mark as we went by it. The next and the next came across our stern, shoving us forward and dragging us to starboard.

Some friends who had arrived the previous day told us they nearly broached in that channel, taking on a lot of water through an open hatch.

Manmade perils to the south.
Chip managed -- quite ably -- to keep us in the channel, and we emerged on the other side in perfectly placid water with very wide eyes. Once we were tied up in the lap of luxury, all was forgotten.

Our last marina was in Nassau, six weeks ago. In the intervening weeks, we have visited remote outposts, always anchored a dinghy ride from shore. Water, trash, provisions, laundry all had to be ferried to the dinghy, from dinghy to boat. Our last proper land shower was in Nassau.

Cara Mia and Jessie Marie, snuggled up at Emerald Bay.
Now we luxuriate in an embarrassment of riches: a supermarket in walking distance, free laundry just down the dock, trash cans and water right beside the boat, shampoo, conditioner, hand cream and sunblock provided in the bathrooms -- private bathrooms with showers!

We have renewed joy in land life's most rudimentary conveniences.

A NEW LEAF

Lee Stocking, Exumas 23º46.28N | 76º06.32W

Small cove on northwest corner of Leaf Cay.

Sometimes guidebooks lead you to wonderful places, enticing you with the amazing things you'll find there.

Sometimes they lead you to wonderful places, where you find none of what's promised but fall in love with it anyway.

This was the case with Leaf Cay, a wisp of an island north of Lee Stocking Island owned by Nicolas Cage and completely uninhabited. The guidebook prattled on about shy pink iguanas, an oceanside beach awash with sea beans and a small pond "alive with butterflies."

Butterflies: Not even one
Sea beans: Zero
Pink iguanas: Check, but they were not shy.

Pink Iguana on Leaf Cay. Large. Fat.

The cove we pulled up in would make a perfect movie set (Nic), brilliant turquoise water lapping on a crescent-shaped white sand beach (see first photo).

The water was so buoyant with salt, that I could sit in it.

Sitting in salty water.
From the rugged oceanside beach, a short walk around the northern tip, you can see hue after hue of blue water strewn with rock islands and Exuma Sound in the distance.

Looking northeast from Leaf Cay.

No sea beans? No worries.
I'm sure the day the guidebook author visited Leaf Cay, there were indeed butterflies and sea beans, and, in retrospect, I'm glad about that for it was those very things that even in their absence, made me visit this little slice of Nic's paradise.

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

SIGHTS OF LEE STOCKING

Lee Stocking, Exumas 23º46.28N | 76º06.32W


Clouds reflected on the still water, sand showing underneath.
As we pass through island after island, I have come to realize that "favorite" is a relative term. Lee Stocking, for now, has sprung to the top of my list, and I'm guessing it might stay there for a while. The sheer magnitude of its vistas from Perry's Peak, the highest point in the Exumas, might be enough on its own, but the purity of the water, the powdery-white sand, the sweeping, coconut-laden palms, the red starfish, paradise.

Underwater shot of red starfish, the size of a dinner plate.

The path to Perry's Peak, highest point in the Exumas.
123 feet if I remember correctly.

Looking northeast from atop Perry's Peak. Is it just me or does this look like Hawaii?

Clouds reflect on perfectly still water looking south on Lee Stocking.